====== 3d printing issues ======

Back-plane issues on a resin print (the flat “back” side of a box) are super common—and usually come down to suction, orientation, or support strategy. Here’s how to fix it depending on what you’re seeing:

### If the back surface is wavy / sagging
- **Cause:** Large flat area parallel to the build plate → suction + poor support
- **Fix:**
  - Tilt the model **20–45°** instead of printing it flat
  - Avoid any large surface being parallel to the plate
  - Add **more medium supports** across that back face (not just edges)

### If you get layer lines, ripples, or “elephant skin”
- **Cause:** Peel forces + insufficient rigidity during lift
- **Fix:**
  - Increase **lift distance slightly** (e.g. +1–2 mm)
  - Reduce **lift speed**
  - Increase **exposure time slightly** for better layer bonding
  - Check FEP is tight and not worn

### If the back plane has holes or missing patches
- **Cause:** Suction failure or supports failing
- **Fix:**
  - Add **drain holes** if it’s a hollow box (critical!)
  - Thicken walls to at least **1.5–2 mm**
  - Add internal supports if hollow
  - Ensure supports connect to the problem area directly

### If it’s rough or has support scars
- **Cause:** Supports placed directly on visible surface
- **Fix:**
  - Re-orient so the back face is **not the support side**
  - Use **lighter supports** + increase density instead of heavy ones
  - Place supports on edges or hidden faces

### If it looks compressed or distorted
- **Cause:** Too much suction force during peel
- **Fix:**
  - Add **vent holes**
  - Tilt more aggressively
  - Use **“hollow + holes” instead of solid block**

### General best practices for boxes
- Never print a box flat like an FDM print
- Tilt + hollow + drain holes is almost always the correct approach
- Think in terms of **minimizing cross-sectional area per layer**